A Civilisation Torn To Pieces

by Robert Fisk; The Independent; April 14, 2003


They lie across the floor in tens of thousands of pieces, the priceless

antiquities of Iraq's history.The looters had gone from shelf to shelf,

systematically pulling down the statues and pots and amphorae of the

Assyrians and the Babylonians, the Sumerians, the Medes, the Persians and

the Greeks and hurling them on to the concrete.

Our feet crunched on the wreckage of 5,000-year-old marble plinths and

stone statuary and pots that had endured every siege of Baghdad, every

invasion of Iraq throughout history - only to be destroyed when America

came to "liberate" the city. The Iraqis did it. They did it to their own

history, physically destroying the evidence of their own nation's thousands

of years of civilisation.

Not since the Taliban embarked on their orgy of destruction against the

Buddhas of Bamiyan and the statues in the museum of Kabul - perhaps not

since the Second World War or earlier - have so many archaeological

treasures been wantonly and systematically smashed to pieces.

"This is what our own people did to their history,"

the man in the grey gown said as we flicked our torches yesterday across

the piles of once perfect Sumerian pots and Greek statues, now headless,

armless, in the storeroom of Iraq's National Archaeological Museum. "We

need the American soldiers to guard what we have left. We need the

Americans here. We need policemen." But all that the museum guard,

Abdul-Setar Abdul-Jaber, experienced yesterday was gun battles between

looters and local residents, the bullets hissing over our heads outside the

museum and skittering up the walls of neighbouring apartment blocks. "Look

at this," he said, picking up a massive hunk of pottery, its delicate

patterns and beautifully decorated lips coming to a sudden end where the

jar - perhaps 2ft high in its original form - had been smashed into four

pieces. "This was Assyrian." The Assyrians ruled almost 2,000 years before


And what were the Americans doing as the new rulers of Baghdad? Why,

yesterday morning they were recruiting Saddam Hussein's hated former

policemen to restore law and order on their behalf. The last army to do

anything like this was Mountbatten's force in South-east Asia, which

employed the defeated Japanese army to control the streets of Saigon - with

their bayonets fixed - after the recapture of Indo-China in 1945.

A queue of respectably dressed Baghdad ex-cops formed a queue outside the

Palestine Hotel in Baghdad after they heard a radio broadcast calling for

them to resume their "duties" on the streets. In the late afternoon, at

least eight former and very portly senior police officers, all wearing

green uniforms - the same colour as the uniforms of the Iraqi Baath party -

turned up to offer their services to the Americans, accompanied by a US

Marine. But there was no sign that any of them would be sent down to the

Museum of Antiquity.

But "liberation" has already turned into occupation.

Faced by a crowd of angry Iraqis in Firdos Square demanding a new Iraqi

government "for our protection and security and peace", US Marines, who

should have been providing that protection, stood shoulder to shoulder

facing them, guns at the ready. The reality, which the Americans - and, of

course, Mr Rumsfeld - fail to understand is that under Saddam Hussein, the

poor and deprived were always the Shia Muslims, the middle classes always

the Sunnis, just as Saddam himself was a Sunni. So it is the Sunnis who are

now suffering plunder at the hands of the Shia.

And so the gun-fighting that broke out yesterday between property owners

and looters was, in effect, a conflict between Sunni and Shia Muslims. By

failing to end this violence - by stoking ethnic hatred through their

inactivity - the Americans are now provoking a civil war in Baghdad.

Yesterday evening, I drove through the city for more than an hour. Hundreds

of streets are now barricaded off with breeze blocks, burnt cars and tree

trunks, watched over by armed men who are ready to kill strangers who

threaten their homes or shops. Which is just how the civil war began in

Beirut in 1975.

A few US Marine patrols did dare to venture into the suburbs yesterday -

positioning themselves next to hospitals which had already been looted -

but fires burnt across the city at dusk for the third consecutive day. The

municipality building was blazing away last night, and on the horizon other

great fires were sending columns of smoke miles high into the air.

Too little, too late. Yesterday, a group of chemical engineers and water

purification workers turned up at the US Marine headquarters, pleading for

protection so they could return to their jobs. Electrical supply workers

came along, too. But Baghdad is already a city at war with itself, at the

mercy of gunmen and thieves.

There is no electricity in Baghdad - as there is no water and no law and no

order - and so we stumbled in the darkness of the museum basement, tripping

over toppled statues and stumbling into broken winged bulls. When I shone

my torch over one far shelf, I drew in my breath. Every pot and jar -

"3,500 BC" it said on one shelf corner - had been bashed to pieces.

Why? How could they do this? Why, when the city was already burning, when

anarchy had been let loose - and less than three months after US

archaeologists and Pentagon officials met to discuss the country's

treasures and put the Baghdad Archaeological Museum on a military data-base

- did the Americans allow the mobs to destroy the priceless heritage of

ancient Mesopotamia? And all this happened while US Secretary of Defence,

Donald Rumsfeld, was sneering at the press for claiming that anarchy had

broken out in Baghdad.

For well over 200 years, Western and local archaeologists have gathered up

the remnants of this centre of early civilisation from palaces, ziggurats

and 3,000-year-old graves. Their tens of thousands of handwritten card

index files - often in English and in graceful 19th-century handwriting -

now lie strewn amid the broken statuary. I picked up a tiny shard.

"Late 2nd century, no. 1680" was written in pencil on the inside.

To reach the storeroom, the mobs had broken through massive steel doors,

entering from a back courtyard and heaving statues and treasures to cars

and trucks.

The looters had left only a few hours before I arrived and no one - not

even the museum guard in the grey gown - had any idea how much they had

taken. A glass case that had once held 40,000-year-old stone and flint

objects had been smashed open. It lay empty. No one knows what happened to

the Assyrian reliefs from the royal palace of Khorsabad, nor the

5,000-year-old seals nor the 4,500-year-old gold leaf earrings once buried

with Sumerian princesses. It will take decades to sort through what they

have left, the broken stone torsos, the tomb treasures, the bits of

jewellery glinting amid the piles of smashed pots.

The mobs who came here - Shia Muslims, for the most part, from the hovels

of Saddam City - probably had no idea of the value of the pots or statues.

Their destruction appears to have been the result of ignorance as much as

fury. In the vast museum library, only a few books - mostly

mid-19th-century archaeological works - appeared to have been stolen or

destroyed. Looters set little value in books.

I found a complete set of the Geographical Journal from 1893 to 1936 still

intact - lying next to them was a paperback entitled Baghdad, The City of

Peace - but thousands of card index sheets had been flung from their boxes

over stairwells and banisters.

British, French and German archaeologists played a leading role in the

discovery of some of Iraq's finest treasures. The great British Arabist,

diplomatic schemer and spy Gertrude Bell, the "uncrowned queen of Iraq"

whose tomb lies not far away from the museum, was an enthusiastic supporter

of their work. The Germans built the modern-day museum beside the Tigris

river and only in 2000 was it reopened to the public after nine years of

closure following the 1991 Gulf War.

Even as the Americans encircled Baghdad, Saddam Hussein's soldiers showed

almost the same contempt for its treasures as the looters. Their slit

trenches and empty artillery positions are still clearly visible in the

museum lawns, one of them dug beside a huge stone statue of a winged bull.

Only a few weeks ago, Jabir Khalil Ibrahim, the director of Iraq's State

Board of Antiquities, referred to the museum's contents as "the heritage of

the nation". They were, he said, "not just things to see and enjoy - we get

strength from them to look to the future. They represent the glory of Iraq".

Mr Ibrahim has vanished, like so many government employees in Baghdad, and

Mr Abdul-Jaber and his colleagues are now trying to defend what is left of

the country's history with a collection of Kalashnikov rifles. "We don't

want to have guns, but everyone must have them now," he told me. "We have

to defend ourselves because the Americans have let this happen.

They made a war against one man - so why do they abandon us to this war and

these criminals?"

Half an hour later, I contacted the civil affairs unit of the US Marines in

Saadun Street and gave them the exact location of the museum and the

condition of its contents. A captain told me that "we're probably going to

get down there". Too late. Iraq's history had already been trashed by the

looters whom the Americans unleashed on the city during their "liberation".

"You are American!" a woman shouted at me in English yesterday morning,

wrongly assuming I was from the US.

"Go back to your country. Get out of here. You are not wanted here. We

hated Saddam and now we are hating Bush because he is destroying our city."

It was a mercy she could not visit the Museum of Antiquity to see for

herself that the very heritage of her country

- as well as her city - has been destroyed.